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| Color Classic - total restoration |
Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-18 14:19:31
Hello
I thought I would come here to ask as most of you are surely more learned than I am.
I have taken apart a Color Classic and would like to do a complete cleanup. I have properly discharged the CRT and the machine is in pieces right now.
For now, I would I have some basic questions.
Should I recap the analog board? Never done it but I have soldered in the past.
Is it safe to clean the CRT and potentially the analog board. I have a can of air but potentially I was thinking of using Isopropyl Alcohol and a q-tip.
Maybe the folks on this forum can understand how particular I am being about cleaning this little guy up. Others might think it's weird but love for these little show pieces goes a long way, besides it's a lot of fun.
Would love to get some advice.
PS, I have all the proper tools and am using an ESD mat and wrist strap. Cheers!
—Alex
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Posted by: 68krazy on 2017-03-18 15:05:32
Alex,
I did a full restoration on an LC550 last year. It is very similar to a Color Classic, so my restoration may be of interest to you.
Restoration work starts on Post #8, and I included a ton of pictures:
https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/26444-fpu-and-scsi2sd-for-lc550/
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Posted by: SlateBlue on 2017-03-18 15:07:40
It's not a bad idea to recap the analog board. Good chance the caps have begun leaking by now. You may also want to check for cracked solder joints, too. How exactly do you plan to clean the CRT? You can wipe down the face of it, no problem. If you're planning to clean the entire CRT body, I suggest you take care not to damage the neck.
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Posted by: Johnnya101 on 2017-03-18 15:10:16
Please recap that analog board! They all need recapping!
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Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-18 16:50:48
Great advice from everyone, 68krazy, thanks for the awesome thread.
Johnnya101, recap huh, quite a few big ones there in the analog board. Is it an expensive endeavor? Not timewise but caps wise. Also, is there a good thread on recapping the analog board? Of course 68krazy may have covered this on his thread. Headed over there now.
Thanks to all!
—Alex
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Posted by: omidimo on 2017-03-18 16:59:30
Recapping the analog board also helps make that Trinitron image sing... well you know... look better.
While you have it apart, you should install a SCSI2SD as well.
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Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-18 17:34:05
Recapping the analog board also helps make that Trinitron image sing... well you know... look better.
While you have it apart, you should install a SCSI2SD as well. The Trinitron is a little blurry and there is some tiny widening of the image on the top left right, bottom left right of what should be a square image so I would reckon a recap would go a long way.
Is this a good deal? https://www.amazon.com/Inertial-Computing-SCSI2SD/dp/B015OT28SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489883440&sr=8-1&keywords=scsi2sd
Where is the best place to get all the caps I need, I am out in Poland and really have no idea of a local seller. I got to figure out what all the caps I need are. I've never done this before so I will likely be coming back for help but this project may take some time. I have a lot of stuff to get, including a soldering iron, it's been years so…
Will try to post some shots of the machine in pieces tomorrow.
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Posted by: omidimo on 2017-03-18 18:07:10
Get the v5 version. Here is the US sellers direct address: http://store.inertialcomputing.com/
You don't need a bracket for the SCSI2SD, but this one is pretty good: https://www.shapeways.com/product/XMF5EE7W8/scsi2sd-v5-bracket
Adjust the display via dials on the board using this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M6BY2A/
As far as caps go, maybe some of the Euro members can chime in with advice.
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Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-18 18:33:09
Wonderful, thank you for the links. I appreciate it!
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Posted by: Johnnya101 on 2017-03-18 19:34:08
Digikey in my opinion is better for electrolytic caps. No, I haven't bought any yet from them, but they seem to have a better selection than mouser.
They are cheeeeaaappp. Maybe $1 or $2 at most for the biggest you can find, little ones are like twenty cents or around there. Never recapped a CC so I don't know how many they have but from what I've read a lot.
Edit: If you are in the US that's where to go for caps, digikey or mouser. Anywhere else I am not sure.
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Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-19 01:24:13
Excellent Johnnya101. I can get them shipped to the US, I have a friend in Boston who can forward any parcel to my location unless shipping is reasonable. I have a lot to learn regarding this whole issue of recapping, especially the analog board.
For one, I discharged the anode cap (CRT) but is there any charge left in the analog board or is it safe to handle now with standard ESD mat and wrist strap?
Also, is it easy to recap? I mean these look like large components for the most part but what advice can be given on the matter and what about tools? In terms of the soldering iron which should I get, I know that they come in a variety of temperature ceilings.
I want to do this but I will need some hand holding but I will research all I can here. I saw an excellent thread by 68krazy on his all-in-one mac that I will refer to again. Different machine but related.
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Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-19 01:31:25
Turns out both mouser and digikey allow a country change to Poland so they surely ship our here which is great!
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Posted by: omidimo on 2017-03-19 02:03:18
Take a look at this thread on another site : https://www.thinkclassic.org/viewtopic.php?id=202
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Posted by: Bolle on 2017-03-19 14:48:12
You might want to check reichelt.de - they do ship to poland at a reasonable price. If you give me some time I might be able to find the shopping list I had around somewhere when doing a full recap ob my CC. Ordered all my parts there.
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Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-20 02:22:04
Thank you Bolle, I will add that link to my prospect depot points.
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Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-20 02:38:26
I have been "reading" the board, a visual exercise to determine find anything obvious.
I found some components that show some severe burn marks around them and a few resistors that show some browning on the board. I don't know if I actually have to drill into the board to remove that burning or not and then add epoxy to rebuild it.
I would like to attach photos but I only see a URL option. I don't know how to add them otherwise. Can someone help with this and I will get photos up.
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Posted by: SlateBlue on 2017-03-20 06:55:58
I usually just upload images to imgur.com, then copy the image URL and paste it into the img tag on my forum post.
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Posted by: EvilCapitalist on 2017-03-20 07:35:55
I would like to attach photos but I only see a URL option. I don't know how to add them otherwise. Can someone help with this and I will get photos up. You'll want to click on "More Reply Options" which brings up the full editor, then you get the ability to attach files/images to your post.
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Posted by: nickpunt on 2017-03-20 23:14:45
For archival purposes posting images directly is better I think, as they're more likely to still be up years later, and the whole forum can be backed up in one go. Hopefully we won't have another image breaking forum migration, but that seems lower risk than various 3rd party image links going down.
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