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Color Classic Cap Replacement - Unknown Cap CP16
Posted by: olwilli on 2017-03-11 10:36:35
Hi Folks,

at first - I read a lot in this forum and im thankful to you all for the work you did. I own a Color Classic wich was in a bad condition, I cleaned it up and recapped about 20 caps(the ones who really look bad). The CC is starting now well but after a few minutes it starts squeaking. Later when the squeaking gets louder the CC shuts down. I will recap the left caps. I figured out that theres one cap, named CP16(on the picture it is the white block), which seems to be cracked. I couldn't find out which values this cap has. Could anyone help me to find it out?

I advantage thank you very much 🙂

CP16.png

Posted by: Alex on 2017-03-13 12:23:28
In terms of squeaking, does it sound like a high pitched sound? It's interesting because I read about this symptom in the Service Source Manual.

It reads:

Flashing or wavy screen or monitor emits high-pitched noise. Resolution: Replace analog board.

Here's some help:


http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Schematics.html, you may want to contact the MacCaps to just ask for this one bit of info. Send him the pic and a short question, "what is this part?", oh yes and that is the schematics link for the Color Classic … (bottom of page)

I found a really excellent link https://www.thinkclassic.org/viewtopic.php?id=202but I am sorry that I did not go through all of it. There are photos of that part of your board but the white (CP16) you refer to doesn't appear identified there either. Please check this link though.

I will see what else I can find but ultimately the schematics for the Analog board should lead to a description of the part.

Kind regards

—Alex

 

Posted by: olwilli on 2017-03-27 13:13:54
Hi,

I checked out the links you gave me - but nowhere a comment or a value about the CP19.

I bought the schematics too, but there are only the schematics of the logic board - not of the analog board...

Anyone has a Hint?  :beige:

Posted by: techknight on 2017-03-27 15:01:03
Could be the flyback, they can be a weak point. 

Posted by: Alex on 2017-04-09 03:22:55
Could be the flyback, they can be a weak point. 
I wonder if the high pitched sound is actually related to two parts vibrating against each other. I would probably open up the machine and try sleeping waking the unit to see if vibration ceases in harmony with sleep/wake. Perhaps you could probe the audio using a microphone and headphones in an otherwise quite environment to understand if you can locate the high pitched sound. Just some thoughts that might be worth investigating, especially if the unit is otherwise working as expected.

Posted by: olwilli on 2017-04-16 07:34:08
Hi again,

here a conclusion of my squeaking Color Classic 😉 The squeaking is coming out of the transformers, easy resoldering helped.

By the way - I desoldered the CP19 because it was cracked, for anyone who wants to know I attached pictures of the desoldered CP19 - It is a:

RIFA PME 290 MB,

40/100/56

10n, Y

250V SH

Nice Easter and best wishes 🙂

IMG_8154.jpg

IMG_8155.jpg

Posted by: Alex on 2017-04-19 06:02:11
I desoldered the CP19 because it was cracked, for anyone who wants to know I attached pictures of the desoldered CP19 - It is a:

RIFA PME 290 MB,

40/100/56

10n, Y

250V SH

Nice Easter and best wishes 🙂
Thanks for documenting this.

By the way, did you generate a list of al the capacitors needed for the CC analog board? If you did, could you share it?

Posted by: Alex on 2017-04-19 06:07:25
RIFA PME 290 MB,

40/100/56

10n, Y

250V SH
Just a quick observation, it appears that the RIFA part has what appear to be 4 small feet or supports, 2 to the right of each pin, I imagine that this little guy is expected to oscillate at a high frequency and it's likely that it might have come loose as a re-solder fixed it as you said. I am guessing this part should be flush with the board so that the small feet like protruding parts stabalize any vibration but all of this is a guess. It might be the crack in the plastic was partly at fault but I am not sure. Are you replacing this part with a new like for like and do you know what this part is/does? Just curious.

—Alex

Posted by: Compgeke on 2017-04-19 09:49:48
Class Y line filter capacitor. It'd be on the input most likely. You can still get replacements no problem. If the lead spacing is 15mm then something such as http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECQ-U2A104MLwould work. If the lead spacing is 10mm then you'd want something such as http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/R71VF3100AA30K/ .

Posted by: Alex on 2017-04-19 11:26:23
If the lead spacing is 15mm then something such as http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECQ-U2A104MLwould work. If the lead spacing is 10mm then you'd want something such as http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/R71VF3100AA30K/ .

Forgive my ignorance and I know I can probably look this up using google or such but is the lead spacing you refer to the distance between the pin holes, if that's the correct term?

Also, maybe you missed this other question I had but do you have a list of capacitors needed for the color classic analog board.

Thanks a million.

—Alex

Posted by: Compgeke on 2017-04-19 11:51:08
Yeah, lead spacing is the distance the holes are apart.

I unfortunately don't have a lost of caps needed, I've never actually owned a colour classic. Best bet for getting one would be grab yourself a marker and start reading cap labels and marking them as you go to make sure you don't double count any.

Posted by: olwilli on 2017-04-20 14:59:06
Have a look here for the capacitors list:

https://www.thinkclassic.org/viewtopic.php?id=202

Here is everything documented including photos...

Posted by: Alex on 2017-04-28 13:55:52
Have a look here for the capacitors list:

https://www.thinkclassic.org/viewtopic.php?id=202
Thanks a million!

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