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Replacement 30-pin SIMM Sockets?

Posted by: joethezombie on 2016-12-11 10:27:46 Looking for replacements for 30-pin SIMM sockets on an SE/30.  I have an '030 socketed board where all the tabs have been snapped off.   xx( I find this single slot version at Jameco, part 100302.  Is it likely to work?

Posted by: IlikeTech on 2016-12-11 13:48:22 You should try to tape the Simms down.

Posted by: joethezombie on 2016-12-11 14:18:57 Thanks, but I'm looking for a complete restoration of this board. It will be my "flagship" SE/30 once complete.

Posted by: Scott Squires on 2016-12-11 15:27:18 Probably will work. I suggest taking calipers to the SE/30 and compare to the datasheet, just to be sure. Compare the pin pitch and outer footprint from the datasheet with measurements from the SE/30. Metal tabs -- sounds a lot better than the terrible simm sockets that I have seen on SE and SE/30 boards. Do you have a desoldering iron (the vacuum type) for removing the old sockets?

Posted by: joethezombie on 2016-12-11 16:14:37 Oh-Kay.... I was being lazy and didn't want to get out the measuring stick and thought someone would have replaced a broken set by now.  I'll check. I don't have a desoldering pump, but am skilled enough to get by with a hand pump, flux, and braid.

Posted by: Scott Squires on 2016-12-11 17:37:12 The SE/30 I'm in the middle of restoring also has a broken simm tab. It's just on one side of the slot... I'm hoping it's not a problem and I can get by without changing it out.

Posted by: gogopuffs on 2016-12-11 17:47:47 In a pinch you can use zip-ties (cable ties) and/or a piece of gorilla tape (or similar) bound against the other SIMMs to keep the tabless SIMM upright and within its slot.  Probably best to get a period-correct SIMM slot if you are wanting an authentic restoration. I have a donor SE/30 logic board (battery explosion) that could be used as a donor for your needs. Let me know.

Posted by: joethezombie on 2016-12-11 18:19:43 Looks like they meet specs: Thanks so much for the offer, gogopuffs!  But I think I'd prefer the metal tabs on the Jameco version. I'll be sure to report back on the fitment.

Posted by: CharlieFrown on 2016-12-16 00:20:31 I would look around for old or possibly damaged 386/486  motheboards with "short simm" slots.

Posted by: Unknown_K on 2016-12-16 02:06:53 http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-pin-SIMM-Vertical-Socket-Metal-Tabs-4-pcs-/122220391729

Posted by: joethezombie on 2016-12-16 07:15:24 I bought the ones from Jameco, since they were only a buck fifty, and seemed to match spec.  They arrived yesterday, so I'll try to swap them out today or tomorrow.  Funny how their eBay price is 4x their website price.

Posted by: trag on 2016-12-17 21:12:50 I bought a bunch of two socket assemblies (IIRC, from Jameco) but the sockets are too close to each other. So i cut them into single sockets with a Dremel Cutting wheel. The pins and plastic tabs all match up. I suspect the pin and tab spacing is standardized. We had a thread discussing this a few years ago I think. Looks loke back in 2012 but haven't found the post yet...

Posted by: joethezombie on 2016-12-19 12:44:34 Thanks for the heads-up, trag. Jameco didn't have the duallies, so I bought single versions. In case anyone was wondering, they work brilliantly!

Posted by: techknight on 2016-12-20 18:16:10 I assume you have a Hakko otherwise I have no idea how you removed those.

Posted by: Scott Squires on 2016-12-21 09:50:12 Nice work, joethezombie. Those metal tabs looks so much easier to deal with than the stock sockets.

Posted by: joethezombie on 2016-12-21 10:18:15 I was actually able to remove most of the solder with a hand pump.  The pins on the sockets are so small, and the through holes so large, that it just sucked it right out.  A lot of flux and flux soaked braid while wriggling the pins with the iron worked well enough to completely free them.  I did have to cut the cross members of the bad sockets with a pair of side cutters to split them from pairs into singles.  And also, the ground plane connections were brutal (only 4 pins per socket, you can see them in the picture, with solder still in the holes).  I ended up using a tiny bit of Chip Quik on them because I didn't dare turn the iron up past 300.  I'd heat the first one, then pull it free, then move to the 2nd one, until all four were "zippered" free and I could completely remove the socket.  And yes, anthon, the metal tabs are SO NICE.  You just lightly press down on the tops, and the SIMM springs out. I ran the machine overnight running Ramometer, no errors! Now I'm distressed if I should remove the old Bank A sockets.  Those ones weren't broken, but the board looks funny with half-metal and half-crap.

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