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kind of had it with CRT's...
Posted by: smrieck511 on 2026-07-02 16:36:46
The Trinitron tube on my M1212 is worn out and won't focus well. Plus even though I wear gloves and understand the precautions, I feel at risk anytime I'm working on this thing. This is not a cause I'm willing to die for.

Has anyone transplanted a nice LCD into an apple monitor or is that a dumb idea?

also I've got a Toby card so I'm assuming with the sync issues I may need a totally different graphics card. if anyone has knowledge of any LCDs that would work with the Toby card, I would love to know.
Posted by: finkmac on 2026-07-02 16:40:49
funny, i've had it with LCDs šŸ˜†

flimsy vinegary-smelling failure prone rubbish

for the toby... I think bmow's mac-sync-inator thing makes it easy to output to LCDs.
Posted by: smrieck511 on 2026-07-02 16:42:19
funny, i've had it with LCDs šŸ˜†

flimsy vinegary-smelling failure prone rubbish

for the toby... I think bmow's mac-synch-inator thing makes it easy to output to LCDs.
I agree in a perfect world, I'd prefer a nice low hour Trinitron. Thanks, I'll check out the bmow shop.
Posted by: obsolete on 2026-07-02 21:33:41
I think some folks were working with the nice fellow in Austria who makes the acrylic lenses on a retrofit for these. I can try to dig up the info later if you can't find it first.
Posted by: croissantking on 2026-07-03 02:28:20
Has anyone transplanted a nice LCD into an apple monitor or is that a dumb idea?
Posted by: Phipli on 2026-07-03 02:50:29
I just avoid (mostly) AIOs and old laptops and use 2000s 4:3 LCD monitors.

Figure screens are the most unreliable thing, so using machines that you can just swap the screen in 30 seconds is the most practical answer.

Also, CRTs take up too much space and flybacks suck.

Occasionally I accidentally forget and so something stupid like buy a 5500/275 in black because it looks cool and was local pickup... Then have regrets because the flyback is failing and I remember why I was happy with my 6500.
Posted by: Durosity on 2026-07-03 06:55:33
Then have regrets because the flyback is failing and I remember why I was happy with my 6500.
I have a spare analogue board for one of them which I believe has a good flyback in case you're interested.
Posted by: Phipli on 2026-07-03 07:08:57
I have a spare analogue board for one of them which I believe has a good flyback in case you're interested.
I would be - I'll drop you a message.
Posted by: nathall on 2026-07-03 18:29:51
My own personal preference is CRTs all the way and I’ll probably be that way until I’m the last one left, but I fully recognize they are dinosaurs that are a pain in the ass to deal with. Still, for me, there’s nothing better than a nice looking image on a CRT.

For everyone else… yeah, LCDs are the way to go.
Posted by: jmacz on 2026-07-03 19:39:52
@croissantking linked my thread from a few years ago, but yes, I transplanted a 14ā€ Samsung LCD into a 16ā€ Macintosh Display. Made a curved acrylic ā€œglassā€ for it also. The result is in the linked thread.

I was going to do another at some point for a broken 13ā€ M0401 trinitron I have. But it’s low on my priority list because I currently have four working Trinitrons (a M0401, a M1297, a M1212, and a 16ā€ M1298). I prefer them over my LCDs with the exception being the one 1600x1200 and the one 1280x1024 LCDs I have for coding purely for the resolution.

There was a vendor in Austria making curved acrylic glass for compact macs (compatible with @zigzagjoe’s SE/30 LCD kit) but I had his first version which made me nauseous. It was too thick and glossy causing extreme glare and a fishbowl effect.

I preferred the custom acrylic I made which was only 1/8ā€ thick (I curved it using heat). It’s thin so it doesn’t cause any distortion. But it was a one off and took me a while to get right.
Posted by: croissantking on 2026-07-03 20:57:39
My own personal preference is CRTs all the way and I’ll probably be that way until I’m the last one left, but I fully recognize they are dinosaurs that are a pain in the ass to deal with. Still, for me, there’s nothing better than a nice looking image on a CRT.

Same here - running a period correct CRT is part of the retro appeal to me.
Posted by: Durosity on 2026-07-04 02:14:57
Same here - running a period correct CRT is part of the retro appeal to me.
Same for me. If I was going to use an LCD, I may as well just run it all in an emulator
Posted by: gsteemso on 2026-07-04 10:18:27
Same for me. If I was going to use an LCD, I may as well just run it all in an emulator
Honestly, I would agree in many cases – but CRTs get _bulky_, and I just can’t justify the space one takes up if a converter that handles a given platform’s peculiarities exists. The Apple IIgs, for example, relies on side effects like phosphor bleed to generate colours, but two different HDMI adapters now exist which can emulate the effect.
Posted by: Byrd on 2026-07-05 01:32:28
flimsy vinegary-smelling failure prone rubbish

I'm in your club bruh; and boy does that glue stink when revealed peeling off the polarising films! It's surely not healthy to inhale. It's a job I'd quite not like to do but finding more and more needed.

Once our wiki is functional we should have a page on starting repair of this, what films you use for what LCD and the reapplication process (for me - it's been soapy water spray and a squeegee).

CRTs - once you have a good one with solid plastics, keep it and treasure it but keeping multiple units running is a chore.
Posted by: smrieck511 on 2026-07-05 10:27:20
well I fixed my M1212 to the point where it's reasonably focused, the convergence and geometry are pretty good.... hence, kind of done with CRT's but not completely done.
Posted by: mayacintosh on 2026-07-05 15:22:45
I have the same focus issue with my M1212 and wasn't able to do anything good with brightness and focus potentiometers (the focus is acceptable only at very low brightness), what do you have done to fix it? I don't even think I will recap it because it's probably useless.
Posted by: smrieck511 on 2026-07-05 16:36:44
I have the same focus issue with my M1212 and wasn't able to do anything good with brightness and focus potentiometers (the focus is acceptable only at very low brightness), what do you have done to fix it? I don't even think I will recap it because it's probably useless.
Well it's not perfect but I recapped it (29 caps), reflowed the larger solder joints, put deoxit on all the connectors/sockets and cleaned it up. That's about all you can do as far as I know, besides rejuvinating it but I'm not going that far.
Posted by: RepairManiac on 2026-07-06 09:05:49
..... I feel at risk anytime I'm working on this thing. This is not a cause I'm willing to die for....
That's because you are at risk, even when powered off, the anode can build up a charge. šŸ™„
Got hit by an arching flyback (had a crack in it) once. SMH
So, I've been done decades ago and don't miss it one bit but I do get the CRT nostalgia
Posted by: Phipli on 2026-07-06 09:13:20
also I've got a Toby card so I'm assuming with the sync issues I may need a totally different graphics card. if anyone has knowledge of any LCDs that would work with the Toby card, I would love to know.
One of either my Dell or ViewSonic work with my Toby as long as I use a 10 switch adapter, but bluntly, the Toby is just about the worst video card you could have in your machine. I'd suggest as a minimum upgrading to a 4•8 or 8•24. They're still not accelerated, but they have better VGA support and can do higher resolutions and even 24 bit.

Given they're unaccelerated you should be able to get one for a good price, although eBay prices are a bit wonky at the moment (sellers can't tell the difference between a high resolution accelerated card and a card that only works with one model of triangular CRT, is unaccelerated and can only do 5 shades of brown.
Posted by: zigzagjoe on 2026-07-06 09:16:46
.... can only 5 shades of brown.
🤣
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