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| help identifying analog board |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-16 11:36:18
Hi folks.
Got an analog board to fix a 128K
Board looks to be in good condition but im not sure if it is 110 volt of 240 volt.
Most analog boards here in ireland are dual voltages ( well the ones ive seen ) but this one does not say what voltage it is
The only thing I see is the writing next to the fuse "Use rating 2.5 amp , 250 volt "
So is it safe to say this is a 240 volt analog board |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-16 11:44:32
just comparing it to the 110 volt I have , I think this is another 110 volt board - they both say the same at the fuse
surely it should be written somewhere on the board , what voltage it is |
Posted by: cheesestraws on 2024-09-16 11:54:56
Looks like a 110/120V board. 240V ones say INTERNATIONAL at the top and have four reservoir caps where that has two. (In theory, there are 120V INTERNATIONAL boards too and you have to look at one of the jumper wires to work out which, but I've never seen a non-240V INTERNATIONAL board personally) |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-16 12:03:37
Your right cheese straws.
Just looked at the other board I got for this , the damaged one that is dual voltages and it has 4 reservoir caps , just as you said.
So now I have a damaged 240 volt board , a decent looking 110 volt board , a 240 volt recap kit
ill plow ahead and recap the damaged board - see what happens |
Posted by: cheesestraws on 2024-09-16 12:06:49
ill plow ahead and recap the damaged board - see what happens
if I remember correctly, there's only one thing on those boards that's complete unobtainium so it's probably worth having a go. |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-16 17:09:39
not happy with the boards I got to fix this I went and took the analog board from my own machine
Just did a recap of the analog board using recap kit from console 5
it just starts this clicking
i have not changed all of the the small radial caps yet , theres about 5 to go
with logic board not connected I hear a distinctive clicking from the analog board , like some kind of relay clicking
i am getting a 'clicking' display so thats promising
is there a relay on there that powers everything up ? |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-16 19:07:30
heres a utube link
|
Posted by: bibilit on 2024-09-16 22:43:49
Try replacing the Optoisolator, maybe your issue here. |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-17 06:11:26
Try replacing the Optoisolator, maybe your issue here. Thanks for that bibilit - will check it first
I spent all of yesterday scouring this site and the net looking for possible fix's on this clicking. All I found was a reply on here from Elfen from 2014 and heres what he said " As for the ticking noise - try disconnecting the floppy drive before powering up, and see it the noise goes away. If not, I'm suspecting the usual suspects on the Analog Board - L1, R1, Q1, C1, Connector to the logic board and T1. Also like Uniserver said, their solder joints."
Thats all I found do far.
from what i was reading the optoisolator is the 6 pin chip next to the brightness control pot , U3 ? |
Posted by: bibilit on 2024-09-17 10:36:57
Yes U3 |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-17 12:05:59
swapped it out U3 and its still the same - clicking
not getting anywhere here
thinking of going back to the original 128K 110 volt analog board and swapping out the flyback
I read its OK to take the flyback from from a mac plus analog board and swap it with the flyback of 128K analog board
the original 128K analog board is in better condition than the the mac plus board i have |
Posted by: nathall on 2024-09-17 23:32:43
FWIW, I get this on the original compacts if I forget to connect the wiring harness that goes to the logic board when I do poweup testing after servicing something. From your video it appears that harness is connected, so probably not your issue, but perhaps a clue? |
Posted by: falen5 on 2024-09-19 15:39:07
Happy to report the flyback transplant from the Plus analog board to the original 128k analog has worked.
Recapped original analog board
When i first powered it up I got smoke from Q3 ( horizontal sync i think) - Reply from earlier post on this warned that if the flyback goes then Q3 will be the first victim down the line.
Swapped Q3 from plus board
Tried again and machine gave good beep with a perfect display
When i removed the original 128K flyback I got a clear view of its condition. Cracking , bulging etc etc.
And Nathall you are correct. If you power up the 128K without the logic board connected you get a clicking from the analog board.
I read 4.9 volts of the 5 and 12.02 volts on the 12.
Some slight screen adjustments , stripped and cleaned the floppy , recapped the 3 radials on the logic board.
Delighted with the results
Again would not have been possible without the amazing help from the amazing people on here
Big thanks to you all yet again. |
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