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| Recapping a mac classic |
Posted by: ehdjej38389 on 2023-04-12 14:52:43
Is there an easier way to recap the logic board with the tantalum caps or are there other caps that are easier to get on i cannot get them on for the life of me |
Posted by: chiptripper on 2023-04-12 16:22:46
Tantalums can be tough because they are usually a little wider than electrolytic caps. My technique is to clear both pads completely of solder, then add fresh solder to just one pad. Attach the cap to that side, and use tweezers to adjust it until it's positioned where you like it. (Try not to dump a lot of heat into the cap though.) Once one side is attached, it's much easier to solder the other side. If you're having trouble getting the solder to flow where it's supposed to, the answer is flux. Use loads of it. |
Posted by: imactheknife on 2023-04-12 16:46:01
Is there an easier way to recap the logic board with the tantalum caps or are there other caps that are easier to get on i cannot get them on for the life of me It depends on cap size. If you ordered a cap kit from console 5 or similar the caps should be close to correct size to pads. If you ordered your own, who knows, could be way to big. Like other poster mentioned, I usually use flux and solder wick to light scrub pads of old solder and cap juice. Then more flux and add new solder to pads, but not huge gobs of solder. Then more flux, place cap in correct orientation (positive / negative) and hold down with my tweezers and take soldering iron to each side. Let the cap melt into the solder. |
Posted by: 3lectr1cPPC on 2023-04-12 18:07:04
Another general piece of advice is to always practice on a junk board first. The last thing you want to do is ruin your old mac by overheating the board or breaking a solder pad. |
Posted by: joshc on 2023-04-12 22:52:10
Another general piece of advice is to always practice on a junk board first. The last thing you want to do is ruin your old mac by overheating the board or breaking a solder pad. This. Practice on something else.
Also watch these really good videos about soldering
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Posted by: bibilit on 2023-04-13 05:57:36
I agree with Chiptripper, my very own method.
The Classic is by far the easiest to recap, only 7 caps + one smaller one. |
Posted by: 3lectr1cPPC on 2023-04-13 07:48:57
Won't a classic board also run with no caps at all? just with no sound? |
Posted by: joshc on 2023-04-13 09:38:11
Won't a classic board also run with no caps at all? just with no sound? Not with none at all, but without the original 7 electrolytics yes. Same for the Classic II. However, I probably wouldn’t recommend leaving it that way. |
Posted by: 3lectr1cPPC on 2023-04-13 09:42:00
Yeah, that’s what I meant. Not talking about taking all the ceramic passives off the back or anything. I wouldn’t leave it that way either though, but that could be handy for troubleshooting. |
Posted by: pezter22 on 2023-04-14 17:33:45
Tantalums can be tough because they are usually a little wider than electrolytic caps. My technique is to clear both pads completely of solder, then add fresh solder to just one pad. Attach the cap to that side, and use tweezers to adjust it until it's positioned where you like it. (Try not to dump a lot of heat into the cap though.) Once one side is attached, it's much easier to solder the other side. If you're having trouble getting the solder to flow where it's supposed to, the answer is flux. Use loads of it. I definitely agree with soldering one side first technique.
Also for some odd reason the traces around C4 are weak. I've had two boards have the pad come up on me at that capacitor. No where else. Luckily it's an easy repair, but just odd. |
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