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| IIsi -- perhaps my first re-cap attempt? |
Posted by: ktkm on 2018-09-17 12:32:32
Hello,
After watching several Youtube-DIY-re-cap programs and with envy studying the craftsmanship of the return-boards from Charles, I have decided to become an autodidact on the subject matter. The only problem is I’m utterly clueless. Since I have to start somewhere I thought I start with an IIsi motherboard that I found on flea-market for $5.
I have counted and made a list of all the capacitors that need to be changed:
C5 4.7 µf 16V
C9 4.7 µf 16V
C10 4.7 µf 16V
C11 4.7 µf 16V
C20 4.7 µf 16V
C22 4.7 µf 16V
C31 4.7 µf 16V
C34 4.7 µf 16V
C35 4.7 µf 16V
C36 4.7 µf 16V
C38 4.7 µf 16V
C130 220 µf 16V
C131 220 µf 16V
At the moment I’m considering tantalum caps, for the most part, but since there are so many different kinds, brands and colours -- where do start?
If someone have pre-filled part number list from DigiKey that would really help me out! 🙂
Thanks!
/ktkm
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Posted by: Bolle on 2018-09-17 12:36:58
Use tantals as they are the easiest to work with.
What soldering gear do you own to begin with?
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Posted by: ktkm on 2018-09-17 12:47:03
What soldering gear do you own to begin with? None at the moment, but I’m about to make an investment in a XYtronic LF-1600, 80W or similar. Other suggestions are very welcome!
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Posted by: Bolle on 2018-09-18 01:13:12
Any reason for opting for one of the more expensive (and still chinese) hot air stations?
For soldering down tantal caps you are better off using just a soldering iron. For removing them I am against using hot air as well, others might argue that because it is not correct by the book to just clip/twist/wiggle them off the board.
Heat transfer into corroded solder spots is extremely bad and I end up with caps that start to boil and pop right into my face before the solder even thinks about melting (still happens with proper preheating and everything...)
The health risks are just not worth it for me to maybe weaken a solder pad by mechanically removing caps.
If you want to use hot air get a 858D (have used one for years and it is still going strong) and invest the money you saved in a decent soldering iron, good flux, dry cleaner, wick and good (leaded) solder.
EDIT: oh and instead of digikey you might want to consider reichelt.de - they ship to sweden and shipping should be cheaper as well than digikey
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Posted by: ktkm on 2018-09-21 06:58:09
Thank you so much Bolle! And thank you for the link!
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Posted by: zezba9000 on 2018-09-24 17:12:33
Here is the stuff I used. The solder core with that rosin work way way better than what came with the solder iron.
Before you apply the rosin, dab some 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean off the area, then dab some rosin paste on the area and apply some solder before setting the cap.
Also make sure to use the super fine point tip on the solder iron.
Solder Iron: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KBIB
Rosin Paste Flux: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A
Rosin Core Solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00030AP48
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Posted by: ktkm on 2018-10-01 09:58:08
Great, thanks! 🙂
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