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MAC SE/30 - How to get it working again
Posted by: ydcl on 2015-08-02 07:36:02
Hi all,

I was told this forum would be an excellent place to get help with my Mac.

Back in 2004 I bought one at a yard sale out of curiosity, it was working, but after it froze I shut it off by the back power button. It never worked again (to be honest it was after the 2-3 time I shut it off that way).

I put it away and now 11 years later I found it at my parents house and decided to plug it in. The same image appears and I don't know enough on how to deal with it.

I was hoping I could get some help with it.

Thanks,

Yan

11825211_10204884962069424_502622263008733179_n.jpg
Posted by: tanuki65 on 2015-08-02 08:07:20
Good news: your Mac works! Its hard drive is corrupt. Try making a System 6 and Apple HD SC Setup floppy (use a USB floppy drive and 1.44MB diskettes; the SE/30 can use them) and tell me if the drive appears.
Posted by: techknight on 2015-08-02 09:02:48
You might want to take it apart, remove the battery before it explodes, and recap the logic board. 

the HDD is likely dead and needs replaced, if not, it shortly will be. 
Posted by: ydcl on 2015-08-02 09:13:41
You might want to take it apart, remove the battery before it explodes, and recap the logic board. 

the HDD is likely dead and needs replaced, if not, it shortly will be. 
That's beyond my knowledge, I don't know much about vintage computers. I just love collecting vintage games and systems.
Posted by: Elfen on 2015-08-02 12:14:17
Well, the key thing is opening it. You need a long reach Torx-15 to get the 2 screws in the handle to open it (there are 4, 2 in the handle and 2 at the bottom.) There are instructions to open the case online, look for a youtube video...

Let it sit for about 4 days so the high voltage caps discharge in that time.

Once the case is open, disconnect the crt socket at the end of the tube. Many end up smacking it and breaking the CRT when removing a stuck cable harness and it suddenly releases free! disconnect the hard drive and floppy drive cables, slowly. Then disconnect them from the mother board - again, slowly.

Now the hard part, The Power/Video cable is hard to pull out at times. There is a latch on it that you have press will pulling it out. Do this slowly. This is where many people pull too hard and it suddenly releases and they smack the CRT, breaking it. Removing the CRT Socket from the tube will lessen this from happening but you can still hit the tube and break it. So use caution and take your time with it. With it removed, the Logic board should slide back and out from a set of groves in the frame.

Look for a battery in a covered box. The top of the box clips to the bottom at the front and back. It's easy to remove once you figure out how the clips are on. Sometimes it might not have a cover. In either case with the cover removed - pull that battery out! It's a 1/2 AA at 3.2 volts. You can get a replacement at most electronic shops or online. Its about $10. Do not replace the battery until after it get a recap first. But IT IS IMPORTANT that you remove the battery as soon as you can! Old batteries tend to explode and dump their corrosive chemicals onto the board and destroying it. Once the battery explodes and the damage done, the board is junk. This is why you need to do this immediately! As soon as you can!

Now the expensive part- GET THAT BOARD RECAPPED!

The capacitors on the SE/30 go bad and tend to rot the board in the same way an exploded battery would. But this damage is repairable, where an exploded battery damage is not. A few people here, including I, recommend member Uniserver's recapping service. He replaces the caps on the board for a low price and fixes other issues he finds, so you are getting a near 100% working board. He is highly recommended. PM him about how much to get it done - all parts and labour included.

Also ask about recapping the Video board and power supply.

The caps he uses are ceramic or tantalum caps, ensuring that the board will be functioning for another 20 or more years. I would not be surprised if it lives for another 100  years - LOL!
Posted by: tanuki65 on 2015-08-02 12:28:51
Uniserver is great — especially if you live near Michigan.
Posted by: uniserver on 2015-08-03 02:01:56
thanks guys… yup at the very least take that pram battery out of there. yikes.  

If Mike McMaster would develop the SCSI2SD the way i have been asking him to…  This gentleman could buy one, pop it on the back and boot up and use it, all with out opening up the computer 🙂

( the scsi2sd is now bus powered from the trm power btw! )   🙂

so all we need now is a 90 Degree elegant solution that pops on the back.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stratos-BakMonolith-2-5-inc-to-25pin-SCSI-adapter-for-PowerMonter-/301702722524?hash=item463ee233dc

Ah well it looks like ARTMIX yet again has beat everyone to the chase.

**  looks like his SCSI2CF will run from termination power as well.
Posted by: techknight on 2015-08-03 08:05:35
that adapter card is a clone from those little SCSI powerbook color/style enclosures, like the one I got from you. 
Posted by: uniserver on 2015-08-03 12:46:49
oh yeah... man that seller has disappeared .
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