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HELP - 512K won't power up
Posted by: s_pupp on 2024-01-24 06:29:07
If you have a 3D printer, you can print out plastic adjustment screwdriver bits (Link)
Just don't use an electrically conductive filament, of course.
Posted by: 68kPlus on 2024-01-25 16:40:34
Are you referring to my iMac flyback thread? @JC8080
Posted by: JC8080 on 2024-01-26 08:46:08
Are you referring to my iMac flyback thread? @JC8080
No, referring to post #23 on the prior page. Just general advice to always use plastic screwdrivers when making CRT/analog board adjustments with the machine running, not machine specific.
Posted by: obsolete on 2024-01-26 14:25:48
If you have a 3D printer, you can print out plastic adjustment screwdriver bits (Link)
Just don't use an electrically conductive filament, of course.
I tried these a while ago, and it's a tough print with an FDM machine. You either need a really small nozzle, really good cooling, or both. I gave up and bought some.
Posted by: 68kPlus on 2024-01-26 15:39:22
No, referring to post #23 on the prior page. Just general advice to always use plastic screwdrivers when making CRT/analog board adjustments with the machine running, not machine specific.
Oh right. Yeah I do that with all Macs I've worked on (CRT-wise), and that works great.
Posted by: s_pupp on 2024-01-26 16:10:42
I tried these a while ago, and it's a tough print with an FDM machine. You either need a really small nozzle, really good cooling, or both. I gave up and bought some.
Good points. I used a Creality K1 with a narrow 0.2mm nozzle, and whatever layer height corresponds to “high quality” — 0.08mm I believe. This machine has good cooling abilities. At these settings, I was able to print nylon tools that work with my SE/30’s choke and pots.
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