68kMLA Classic Interface

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Apple IIc complete set restoration
Posted by: Denus on 2015-01-23 05:40:20
I had no idea about this phenomena, it's all 220v here but It all makes sense now.
So you'll need a 110v to 220v voltage converter I guess (dirty cheap though).

Posted by: Elfen on 2015-01-23 08:47:33
It's a clear florescent bulb.
I've been hunting for this lamp. In the US it seems $90 is common price. Not a cheap lamp! But I did fine one place online, and I am sure there are more, for less. Two lamps shipped to the US would be less than $120.

http://www.svetila.com/product_info.php?language=en&currency=USD&products_id=1170&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=BaseFeed&utm_campaign=products-EN&gclid=CJiZut3Fm8MCFQ4BaQodclIA6A
Unity, have you tried looking at an aquarium supply store? They sell clear UV Bulbs and fixtures for large aquarium tank disinfecting. You put the bulb into the tank's florescent fixture, turn it on and walk away for a couple of hours. The bigger the tank, the bigger the bulb, the longer the time, but for a 25 gallon tank, its a couple of hours. This kills off the various unwanted microbes that could be infecting your tank. WARNING: Do not look at the blub while it is turned on!

Denus, thanks for answer that because the aquarium disinfecting UV bulb is exactly the same thing.

Posted by: unity on 2015-01-23 09:56:55
Those aquarium lamps would not work, period.

Posted by: Denus on 2015-01-23 11:27:53
I think the price wouldn't differ much anyway, so rather choose for a bulb that has been tested and approved (by me that is).

Just want to clear out that the combination bulb/Oxi Kallos 12%/plant spray to keep things humidified is working great for me.
Except for the bulb, this is also the method I've used last summer with sunshine, and I even did a Casio VL-Tone (VT-1) and some other things which are now snow white.
I can't tell if other methods or products are working as well: it may, it may not...

Posted by: unity on 2015-01-28 17:20:59
My lamps came today. I decided to tap into a sub-box for a small water heater I have on the third floor. Oddly my meter is reading the output at 300v! Not sure what is up with that and not sure I want to plug a lamp into that. I know they love 230v and ideally run at 235v. But 300v seems crazy high. Not sure why its reading so high, very odd. Its a dedicated sub box to a breaker in the main box.

Posted by: Denus on 2015-01-29 04:09:48
That will shorten the lifespan of the lamp for sure!
I think you should seek for a safer option as the lamp isn't cheap....

Posted by: Denus on 2015-01-29 05:49:36
Btw: this lamp doesn't like to be switch on and off repetitively, that can cause a defect.

So when you put it on for the first time, keep it on for 30 seconds or a minute before you put it off.

Posted by: unity on 2015-01-29 08:32:58
^ Correct. The lamp you see is just a protective shell/reflector. The real lamp on the inside is a high intensity discharge and they hate "hot arcs". The electrodes inside can get beaten pretty quick. It should cool down for no less than 10 minutes before firing up again.

Posted by: captaineos on 2015-01-30 22:29:05
Can you clarify what moisture you're spraying on please

Posted by: Denus on 2015-01-31 14:44:32
Simple tap water, nothing special.

Posted by: Juliet Elysa on 2015-02-08 00:42:09
The monitor was very yellow, almost brown, but this is the result after a few hours (can't believe how nice it came out!)
Wow, it did come out great! Just curious, do you have any pictures of before the treatment?

Posted by: Denus on 2015-02-09 23:54:43
I got all the pictures in my gallery, but here a photo of the monitor before the treatment:



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