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| color classic will not boot |
Posted by: mraroid on 2016-02-24 10:30:02
Hi folks...
My Color Classic has had the LB and analog board re caped. It worked perfect. I packed it well, double boxed it and sent it in my shipping container from the USA to Ecuador.
I unpacked it a few days ago. It looked just fine. I hooked it up and plugged it in, and turned it on.
The screen looks like it has no power applied to it. It never changes color. The green light comes on in the CC when I boot. I do not hear any chimes or any sounds at all.
I removed the analog board and plugged it back in again in case it was loose. Same issue.
I will take it apart, yet again, to see what is wrong. Any thoughts on what I might look for? Suggestions welcome.
Thanks in advance.
mraroid
Ibarra Ecuador
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-02-24 10:54:41
I should add that I can hear the fan spin up when I boot. I do not have a HD in this CC. I am using a CF to SCSI converter card like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CF-AztecMonster-CF-3-5inc-SCSI-Converter-Card-New-Condition-for-AKAI-E-mu-/301879718421?hash=item46496ef215:g:F3MAAOSw1XdUXEEp
mraroid
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Posted by: Macdrone on 2016-02-24 20:39:56
You removed the analog board and pluged it back in case it was loose? Do you mean the motherboard? What kind of caps were used in replacement? who did it? Its hard to see if they are intact. What caps were replaced on the analog board? Maybe some were not replaced. So many if its hard to say. A jarring on the trip may have damaged the tube. We are talking 22 years of age. Anything could be wrong. Maybe the end fell off the tube, maybe the sense wire is bent on the motherboard or harness. Maybe the motherboard wasnt cleaned enough before recap. Did it have the resolution mod done to it for 640x480? that can hurt things also.
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Posted by: uniserver on 2016-02-24 21:23:04
at first i wondered if the voltage there was 110v. a google search says that it is, so that is at least good.
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-02-25 04:13:19
Uniserver re caped both boards for me. I do not know what kinds of caps he used. I did not do the resolution mod to change the screen resolution. Both boards had a bath. They look nice and clean.
I guess I will take the computer apart and look for anything obvious that jumps out at me.
Yep the electrical grid here is Ecuador is just like the USA. My VOM tells me the power is stable. The CC, like my TV, is plugged into a APC battery back up surge protector
just like it was in Oregon. As a test, I plugged it into a unprotected outlet and had the same issue.
Could I try booting to a CD to isolate the trouble out of my SCSI to CF boot drive?
mraroid
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Posted by: raoulduke on 2016-02-25 07:43:36
Someone explain to him how to 'jump start' machine
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Posted by: Elfen on 2016-02-25 08:01:25
Remove the connected drives and see if you can get at least a flashing "?" in a disk icon.
Knowing this machine well through you, I have a bad feeling that it was dropped during shipment and something broke inside. Just got to find out what it is and fix it.
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Posted by: raoulduke on 2016-02-25 08:17:06
Okay, sorry I was on my phone. My suggestion would be to pull the motherboard out (leave it in the slot, just disconnect the end-connector by pulling it out slightly). Turn it on; you'll hear that fan sound. Slide the motherboard in pretty quickly (don't break it but you cannot do this slowly).
If it powers up that way it's a much less serious problem.
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Posted by: raoulduke on 2016-02-25 10:24:17
Actually I rescind my idea. I think hot booting, if successful, is always indicative of dirty contacts. Pull the logic board, get some rubbing alcohol, clean the contacts, blow through the back of the machine to try to get any dust out of the contacts inside the machine. Then reinsert it and try again.
Um, if you mean that the logic board was loose plugged in, then yes you do need to take it apart at some point and see if something has slipped loose or is cracked.
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-03-12 06:25:37
Hi folks...
I found the correct screwdriver blade and removed the case of the CC. I checked all the connections. Everything seemed fine. Everything looks fine. I unplugged and plugged back in everything I could. I remove the hard drive, and re assembled the CC. I powered on the CC from the keyboard with out a hard dive installed.
I have the same condition I had before. The green light goes on in the CC. I hear the fan spin up. But no sound, and nothing on the screen. Not even a flicker.
Can anyone suggest some things I can try next?
Thanks in advance..
jack
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-03-12 06:41:04
Elfen...
Thanks for the good feedback.
I double boxed the CC myself. It had rigid foam & bubble wrap around the inside box, and bubble wrap in the inside box.
I watched my shipping container be packed in the USA. I employed a profession moving company to pack my shipping container. I paid extra to have some items custom crated for shipment. I watched the shipping container being unpacked in Ecuador. I was lucky in that Ecuador customs only opened about 1/2 the boxes in my shipping container. The CC was not a box they opened.
When I unpacked the CC, the outside box and inside box looked great. My container spent about 3 weeks at sea. I am sure the boat was slipping and sliding on the waves along the trip down the west cost of the USA to the port of entry in Ecuador. Who knows what happened along the ride. Heavy stuff was packed on the bottom of the shipping container and light stuff on the top. The CC was packed well on top wrapped in a shipping blanket. It looked the same when the container was opened. I found no evidence of a shifting load when the container was opened after being at sea. So the box was not dropped.
But your point is well taken. It was at sea for a long time. Short of being dropped, can you think of something else I can look for? The screen and everything else look great. No loose connections that I could find.
I have a VOM, but not sure what voltages to look for where. Any advice?
Thanks again for all your help.
jack
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-03-12 06:50:29
Hi raoulduke...
Thanks for the good feedback. I had both boards rebuilt and washed. They both look great. I had the CC mostly apart back in the states before I shipped it. I scrubbed the contacts as well as the trim pots with contact cleaner. No dust inside the case as of yet. I even removed the fan, cleaned it and everything around it and re assembled it before the CC left the country.
I did upgrade from a SCSI hard drive to a board that has a CF card on it. It worked great.
In trouble shooting the CC now, I removed this SCSI CF board. When I boot, I have thew same condition.
Any advice appreciated. Thanks again.
jack
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Posted by: Elfen on 2016-03-12 09:12:57
I have a VOM, but not sure what voltages to look for where. Any advice?
Thanks again for all your help.
jack From the hard drive power connector - Black is Ground, Red is 5V and Yellow is 12V. The 5V line is used for nearly everything on the Mac.
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-03-12 09:59:34
I will check for this. Thanks so much.
jack
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-03-12 10:13:18
Elfen...
With the hard drive removed, I have 4.99V betwen ground (black) and red. Between ground and yellow, I only have 11.80V. Is this good enought? I thought with both the logic and analog board rebiuilt, I would have at least 12V....
Thoughts????
Great tip! At least the CC is not totally dead....
Thanks!!
jack
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Posted by: Paralel on 2016-03-12 17:03:34
The voltages you have are definitely within tolerance.
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Posted by: uniserver on 2016-03-12 18:29:57
try poping the rom's in and out on the mb.
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-03-13 06:10:10
Unisever....
I had pulled and re seated the SIMM sticks, but not the ROMs. Good suggestion. I pulled the ROMs, then sprayed contact cleaner onto the socket (did that several months ago). Cleaned with compressed air. Re seated the ROMs. Booted. Same issue.
When I boot, I hear the soft click I always hear when I boot correctly (it is not the hard drive). I hear what I think is power going to the CRT screen (kind of a soft quiet bling that I always hear when it boots correctly). The fan spins up. The green light goes on right away when I press the power on key on the keyboard. Then no sound, and nothing on the screen.
I opened it up again to inspect all the connections. I again unplugged what ever cables I could find and plugged them back in again. I re installed the CF/SCSI adaptor (my hard drive) to see if my chance it might boot again.
Thinking that perhaps my sound was turned down, I pressed the front audio button to turn the volume up all the way. I did the same with the CRT brightness front button. Still the same issue. No activity on the screen and not a peep of sound from the speaker. Yep, I checked to see that the speaker was plugged in and it was. I unplugged it and plugged it back in again.
In the condition the CC is in now, might I try to boot from a floppy or a CD? I unpack every day. Someplace in my house is a box of my Mac software...
If I get nothing when I try to boot with no hard drive installed, would trying to boot to a floppy or a CD give me the same condition?
As I have good 5V and good 12V on the power cable going to the hard drive, I can assume the power supply is OK. Yes? What would be a good next step to test?
jack
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Posted by: mraroid on 2016-03-13 10:14:50
Do I have a CUDA switch? If so where is it?
I read then from a old forum re a CC that would not boot:
"Given that you have cleaned and inspected the logic board and fan, inserted RAM and VRAM if those are missing, replaced the PRAM battery with a known-good half-AA 3.6V lithium cell (or a Rayovac 840 4.5V alkaline battery for MLBs of the CC's 'middle period'), checked that FDD and HDD are present and connected, and worked the logic board in and out of its connector several times to clean the contacts, and pressed the CUDA switch (near the ADB ports) if one is present, switching on the AC should give an audible resonant 'clunk', as of a relay pulling-in. Now the soft power key on the keyboard should initiate startup.
If, however, pressing the keyboard's power key produces one or more audible clicks, and blinks the front green power-on LED in sympathy for as long as you hold the key down, you have met a CC that has not been in use for quite some time. The remedy is to leave the CC set up, with the AC power switched on, for up to 24hr, trying at (say) hourly intervals to start up with the keyboard switch. If one of these attempts elicits the POST chime, you are on the way with a demonstratedly working logic board."
Thanks
jack
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